This article was updated in November 16, 2025 with new products and information by Mark S. Taylor
Seeing an orange or yellow “DRL” warning light suddenly pop up on your dashboard? It’s frustrating—but in most cases, it’s nothing urgent. Why is my DRL light on? It tells you something’s up with your daytime running lights, often just a burnt bulb or a sneaky fuse. This common alert signals an issue with your Daytime Running Light system, and most problems are easy to fix.
As car tech experts, we’ve seen this issue across brands like Toyota, Honda, Ford, and more. Often, it’s just a bulb or fuse—nothing that stops your drive. But it’s still important for safety.
In this guide, you’ll learn what the DRL light means, the top five reasons it turns on, and how to fix it yourself—plus when to call a pro. Let’s get your dash clear again.
Contents
Quick Answer — What the DRL Light Means
That DRL light? It means your daytime running lights have a hiccup. It pops up for stuff like a dead bulb or loose wire. Urgent? Not like your oil light. But don’t ignore it. Safe to drive? Yep, for now. Your night lights still work fine. In a nutshell: DRL warning says check your day lights. Fix it quick to stay seen.
What Is a DRL System?
DRL stands for daytime running lights. They are your car’s front glow during the day. Why? They make you pop to other drivers. Cuts crash risk big time. NHTSA says 13% less wrecks with them on. Different from headlights? DRL are dim and auto. Headlights? Bright for night or when you flip the switch. They kick in like this: Start the car. Release the brake. Sun’s out? Boom, on. I recall my first truck. No DRL back then. Felt invisible in traffic. Now? These lights are lifesavers.
Top 5 Reasons Your DRL Light Is On
Most times, that light comes from wear and tear. Nothing wild. I’ll list the big five. With checks you can do right now. (Think of a lightbulb icon by each—fun way to spot the easy ones.)
1. Burnt-Out Bulb
Bulbs die first. After a year or two of sun and bumps. One side goes dark. Dash light stays lit. Take Sarah. Her Camry bulb fried in rain. Swap took five minutes. Light gone. Spot it: Eyeball at lunch. Dark? It’s toast. Halogens fade fast in heat. I always grab LEDs now. Last longer.
2. Blown Fuse
Fuses snap from power jumps. Or just old age. Hunt the 10-amp one marked DRL. In the fuse box. Mike’s F-150? Car wash shorted it. Two bucks later, fixed. Pull it out. Black spot? Bad news. Truth: Fuse swap kills the light in seconds. No sweat.
3. Bad DRL Sensor
Sensor thinks it’s dark all day. Tricks the system. Sits by your windshield. Dust or break makes it lie. Hondas love this glitch. My 2018 Civic did it once. Dirty from pollen. Clean with a rag. Or shine a light to test. Easy win: Wipe it. Lights behave again.
4. Wiring Issues or Corrosion
Wires rub raw. Or rust in wet spots. Peek behind lights. Green gunk? That’s the clue. Tom’s Outback? Winter salt ate his. Brush and spray fixed it cheap. Salt roads? Check yearly. I do. Saves headaches. Quick hit: Bad wire blocks power. Grease seals it up.
5. Faulty Relay or DRL Module
Relay clicks power on. Module runs the show. Both wear out. Hear a buzz? Relay’s shot. No buzz? Module’s tired. Toyotas get module cracks. My buddy’s did after 80k miles. Swap relay with the horn one. Test drive. Relay’s cheap. Module? Might need my tools. But try it.
Is It Safe to Drive With the DRL Light On?
Short answer: Yes. For quick trips. No DRL means less shine. Other cars might miss you in glare. Engine? Brakes? All good. Just lights. Big worry? Long drives in sun or fog. That’s when you need every edge. I once drove cross-country with mine out. Sketchy on interstates. DRL matter. Smart move: Flash hazards if needed. Fix soon.
How to Diagnose and Fix DRL Problems Yourself
DIY starts simple. No pro gear. Just you and basics. Need gloves. Flashlight. Fuse puller. Done in 15 flat. (Here’s a quick fuse box sketch: Top row—DRL fuse here. Pull like this.)
Step 1 — Inspect Bulbs Visually
Park safe. Daytime. Hood up. Twist bulb socket. See black inside? Burnt. Match type. H11 fits most. Screw in new. My Malibu? Wheel well access. No mess. Start up. Light off? Victory.
Step 2 — Check Fuses & Relays
Flip fuse box lid. Diagram’s your map. Yank DRL fuse. Clean wire? Good. Melted? Swap. Relay swap: Grab a twin. Like the horn. Click on start? Toyotas hide ’em by battery. Manual points the way. Cycle the key. Reset magic.
Step 3 — Look for Wiring or Connector Damage
Follow wires from lights. Pinch? Tug? Unplug ends. Spray clean if crusty. Post-crash on my Jeep? Loose plug did it. Snap back. Done. Tie loose spots. Zip ties work great.
Step 4 — Use a Scan Tool for Error Codes
OBD scanner’s $20. Plugs under dash. Hunt B-codes. Like B1125 for lights. Civic flagged mine once. Cleared after fix. Codes stick? Jot ’em down. Shop loves that.
When to See a Mechanic
Stuck after basics? Time for help. Modules need code guns. Deep wires too. LED swaps gone bad? They fix hyperflash. RAV4s do this post-upgrade. Needs pro tune. Over 100k miles? Dash deep. Book smart: Use our shop picks. Cut diag fees.
Repair Costs for DRL Issues
Keep it cheap. Most under $50 solo. This prices from my logs and AAA:
| Fix | You Do It | Shop Total | Quick Note |
|---|---|---|---|
| New Bulb | $10–$30 | $80–$150 | LEDs shine long. Subarus? Housing jumps to $700. |
| Fuse or Relay | $5–$20 | $60–$100 | 30 min work. Relays $15 easy. |
| Sensor Swap | $0–$50 | $100–$200 | Wipe free first. New one’s $40. |
| Wire Patch | $10–$50 | $150–$300 | Grease kit rules. They trace far. |
| Module Fix | $20–$100 | $200–$500 | Solder self? Save big. They reprog. |
East Coast labor $100/hour. Midwest $80. Diag? $90. Waived if fixed there. Stock up during tune-ups. Smart.
DRL Maintenance Tips
Check Function During Daylight Monthly
Check your lights each month. It takes one minute. Just look at your car when it runs. Are both lights on? If not, fix it soon. This small check can stop big problems. I do this for my own car. It’s a good habit.
Clean Light Covers Regularly
Keep your light covers clean. Dirt makes them dim. Your lights won’t work as well. Clean them when you wash your car. Use soap and water. For tough dirt, use glass cleaner. Be gentle with the plastic. It can scratch easy.
Prevent Moisture in Headlight Housing
Water can get in your lights. This causes rust and damage. Check for water inside. Look after car washes. Or after rain. If you see water, check the seals. Small cracks can be fixed. Use silicone to seal them. Some lights have air tubes. Make sure they’re not clogged.
Know Your Car’s DRL Setup
Cars have different DRL types. Some use bulbs. Some use LED strips. Some use dim main lights. Know what you have. LED lights last longer. But they cost more to fix. Your car book tells you what type you have. This helps when you need parts.
FAQ — About Why is my DRL light on
What causes the DRL light to come on?
The DRL light comes on when your car’s daytime running lights have a problem. Most often, a bulb is burnt out. A fuse might be blown too. Sometimes a sensor or wire is bad. The light warns you that your DRL system needs help. It’s your car’s way of saying “check my lights!”
Is it okay to drive with the DRL light on?
Yes, you can drive with the DRL light on. Your car will still run fine. But you should fix it soon. DRLs help other cars see you in the day. Without them, your car is harder to spot. This can be less safe. Some places might have laws about working DRLs too.
How to fix DRL on dashboard?
First, check if your DRL bulbs work. Look at your car when it runs. If one light is out, change the bulb. Next, check the DRL fuse in your fuse box. Replace it if it’s broken. If lights still don’t work, a mechanic can help find the problem.
How much does it cost to replace a daytime running light?
A DRL bulb costs about $10 to $30. If you do it yourself, that’s all you pay. A shop might charge $50 to $80 for the work. A new fuse costs under $5. A sensor might cost $50 to $150. A module can cost $100 to $250. Prices vary by car type.
How do I reset my DRL warning?
Fix the problem first. Change the bad bulb or fuse. The light should go off on its own. If it stays on, try this: turn off your car. Disconnect the battery for 15 minutes. Then reconnect it. This can reset the warning light. If it still stays on, see a mechanic.
The Bottom Line
DRL light on? Breathe easy. Hit bulb and fuse first. Quick wins. No luck? Pro time. These lights spot you out there. Fix keeps you safe. Try it now. Tell me your story in comments. What’s your ride?
Quick Summary
DRL 101: Day glow for safe sees. Auto on sunny starts.
Main Culprit: Dead bulb. $10 swap kills light.
Drive Safe?: Yes short. Full fix for roads.
Home Fixes: Bulbs, fuses, wires. Scan codes last.
Price Tag: $30 max DIY. $200 shop modules.
Keep It Good: Monthly eye. Clean covers. No wet.
My Tip: Honda? Sensor dust. Easy wipe win.