Noise When Turning Steering Wheel: Causes, Diagnosis & Fixes

This article was updated in January 8, 2026 with new products and information by Mark S. Taylor

You turn the wheel and hear a strange sound. It can be scary. Noise when turning steering wheel often means a problem. It might be the power steering or suspension. We have seen this many times. We know how to find the cause. This guide covers the noises, the causes, and how to fix them. Don’t wait—read on to stay safe.

Contents

What Different Steering Wheel Noises Mean

You can tell a lot by listening. The type of sound points to the broken part.

Grinding Noise When Turning

A grinding noise usually means a bad CV joint.

Primary cause: The Constant Velocity (CV) joint is worn out.
Secondary causes: Worn brake pads might be rubbing on the rotor.

Squealing or Squeaking Noise

A high-pitched squeal often means a belt problem.

Low power steering fluid: Low fluid makes the pump work hard and whine.
Worn serpentine belt: The belt slips on the pulley.
Dry bushings: Dry rubber in the steering column squeaks.

Clunking or Knocking Sound

A clunk means a loose part is hitting metal.

Tie rod ends: Worn tie rods cause knocking when you turn.
Ball joints: Failing ball joints make a deep clunk.
Sway bar links: Broken links rattle over bumps and turns.

Whining Noise

Whining usually comes from the power steering pump.

Power steering pump: The pump is failing.
Low fluid: Air bubbles in the fluid cause noise.
Air in system: A recent repair might have trapped air.

Clicking or Popping Noise

Clicking is a classic sign of axle issues.

CV joint damage: You hear this during sharp turns.
Strut bearing: The top mount bearing might be broken.
Steering shaft wear: The U-joint in the steering shaft is worn.

Creaking or Rubbing Sound

Creaking usually means old rubber parts.

Suspension bushings: Rubber parts dry out and creak.
Dry ball joints: Lack of grease causes squeaking.
Control arm: Worn control arm bushings rub metal.

Common Causes of Steering Wheel Noise

Many parts can make noise. Finding the right one saves money.

1. Low or Contaminated Power Steering Fluid

The fluid helps the pump turn the wheels easily.

How it works: Hydraulic fluid moves through the system to push the pistons.
Symptoms: You might hear whining or groaning. The wheel feels stiff.
Check fluid: Look at the reservoir. Is it low?
Fix: Top it off with the right fluid. If it is dirty, flush it.

2. Failing Power Steering Pump

The pump creates the pressure to steer.

Role in hydraulic steering: It pushes fluid to the steering rack.
Signs: A groaning noise is common, especially when the car is cold.
Testing: A mechanic can check the pump pressure.
Cost: Replacing a pump costs between $200 and $500.

3. Worn CV Joints (Constant Velocity Joints)

CV joints let the axle bend while the wheel turns.

What they do: They transfer power to the wheels while turning.
Symptoms: A clicking or grinding sound during sharp turns is a bad sign.
The cause: A torn rubber boot lets grease out and dirt in. The joint dries up.
Cost: Replacing a CV axle costs $300 to $800 per side.

4. Bad Tie Rod Ends

Tie rods connect the steering rack to the wheels.

Function in steering linkage: They move the wheels left and right.
Symptoms: You hear clunking at low speeds. Your tires might wear unevenly.
Testing: Lift the car and wiggle the wheel. If there is play, the tie rod is bad.
Cost: Replacement costs $100 to $400 per side.

5. Worn Ball Joints

Ball joints let the suspension move up and down.

Role in suspension: They act like a hinge for the control arms.
Signs: Look for clunking, squeaking, or vibration in the steering wheel.
Importance: If a ball joint breaks, the wheel can fold under the car.
Cost: Replacing one costs $200 to $500.

6. Failing Strut Bearings (Strut Mounts)

These bearings sit at the top of the front struts.

Location: They are under the plastic plate in the engine bay.
Symptoms: You hear clunking or popping. The steering might feel stiff.
Cause: Rust and age wear out the bearings.
Cost: Expect to pay $150 to $400 per side.

7. Damaged Steering Rack

The steering rack is the main part of the system.

Central component: It turns the rotational motion of the wheel into side-to-side motion.
Signs: Listen for grinding. The wheel might feel stiff or sticky. You might see fluid leaks.
Internal seal failure: Leaks inside the rack ruin it.
Cost: A new rack is expensive, ranging from $500 to $1,500.

8. Worn Steering Column Components

Parts inside the car can also make noise.

Universal joints: These joints in the column can wear out.
Interior noises: A squeak right behind the wheel is often the column.
Clock spring: This part can make noise and disable the airbag.
Fix: Sometimes lubrication helps. Other times, you need new parts.

9. Worn Serpentine Belt

The belt powers the power steering pump.

Powers pump: If the belt slips, the pump loses power.
Symptoms: You hear squealing when you turn the wheel, especially at idle.
Visual: Look for cracks in the rubber belt.
Cost: A new belt is cheap, usually $50 to $150.

10. Suspension Bushing Deterioration

Bushings cushion metal parts from touching.

Control arm bushings: They connect the arms to the frame.
Sway bar bushings: They keep the car from leaning too much.
Symptoms: Creaking and clunking sounds are common.
Cost: Repair varies by location, usually $100 to $400.

How to Diagnose Steering Wheel Noise

You can find the problem by listening and looking.

Listen to the Type of Sound

The sound tells you what to check first.

Grinding: Check CV joints or brakes immediately.
Squealing: Check the belt or fluid level.
Clunking: Check tie rods, ball joints, or links.
Whining: Check the power steering pump.

When Does the Noise Occur?

Timing matters for the diagnosis.

Left vs Right: Does it happen when you turn left or right? This points to the side that is bad.
Low speed: Parking lot noises are usually CV joints or suspension.
Highway speed: Noise at high speed might be wheel bearings.
Stationary: Does it make noise while parked in the driveway?

Check Power Steering Fluid

This is the easiest thing to check.

Location: Find the reservoir in the engine bay. It has a steering wheel icon.
How to check: Look at the dipstick or the side of the tank.
Color: Fresh fluid is usually clear or red. Brown fluid is dirty.
Leaks: Look for wet spots around hoses or the rack.

Visual Inspection Checklist

Look under the car with a flashlight.

Torn CV boots: Look at the rubber boots on the axles. Are they ripped?
Tie rod ends: Look at the rubber boots on the steering links. Are they torn?
Ball joints: Look at the rubber boots. If they are split, the joint is likely dry.
Serpentine belt: Check the belt for cracks or glazing.
Fluid leaks: Trace any wet spots to the source.

The Bounce Test

This test helps find strut mount issues.

Testing struts: Push down on the front corner of the car.
Listen: Do you hear a clunk or squeak when you bounce it?
Limitations: This test is not perfect. It only finds bad bushings or mounts.

Professional Diagnostic Methods

A shop has better tools than you do.

Lift inspection: They put the car on a lift and shake the wheels.
Test drive: A mechanic will feel the vibration.
Steering sensor: They can check the electronic sensors in modern cars.
Pressure test: They test the power steering pressure directly.

For more help, visit CarMD to find a certified mechanic.

Can You Drive With Steering Wheel Noise?

It depends on the noise and how it feels.

Risk assessment by noise type Some noises are safe for a short time. A squealing belt might let you drive to the shop. A grinding CV joint could leave you stranded.

Immediate danger signs Stop driving immediately if you lose steering control. If the wheel feels loose or locks up, stop. If the car pulls hard to one side, get it towed.

Noises you can monitor briefly A low whine might mean low fluid. You can drive carefully to a gas station to add fluid. A slight creak might just be dry bushings.

Long-term damage from delaying repair Driving with a bad CV joint can break the axle. A bad tie rod can cause you to lose steering. It is not worth the risk.

How to Fix Steering Wheel Noise

Fix the problem before it gets worse.

DIY Fixes

You can fix some issues at home.

Topping off fluid: Check the level. Add the correct type of fluid.
Belt tension: Some cars have an adjustable tensioner. Others need a new belt.
Cleaning: Silicone spray can fix squeaking plastic parts in the cabin.
When DIY is appropriate: Only do this if you are comfortable with tools.

Professional Repairs & Costs

Some jobs need a pro and a lift.

Part	Estimated Cost (Parts + Labor)
Power Steering Pump	$200 – $500
CV Axle Replacement	$300 – $800
Tie Rod Ends	$100 – $400
Ball Joints	$200 – $500
Strut Mounts	$150 – $400
Steering Rack	$500 – $1,500
Serpentine Belt	$50 – $150

Factors affecting cost Luxury cars cost more. Labor rates vary by city. OEM parts cost more than aftermarket. Check our guide on car maintenance costs for more info.

Prevention Tips

Keep your car quiet and safe.

Regular checks: Check your power steering fluid every month.
Belt replacement: Change the serpentine belt before it breaks.
Protect boots: Keep CV joint boots safe from road debris.
Don’t force it: Do not hold the steering wheel all the way to the stop. It strains the pump.
Alignment: Get an alignment if you hit a big pothole.

Noise When Turning at Low Speed vs High Speed

The speed helps diagnose the issue.

Low Speed Noises (Parking Lot Turns)

These are suspension and steering noises.

Stress: Turning at full lock puts high stress on parts.
Easy to hear: There is less road noise to cover it up.
Common culprits: CV joints, tie rods, and strut bearings make noise here.

High Speed Noises

These noises are more serious.

Wind and road: It is harder to hear.
Vibration: You might feel a shimmy in the wheel.
Wheel bearings: A humming noise that gets louder with speed is a bearing.
Alignment: Rubbing tires can make noise at highway speed.

Noise Only When Turning Left or Right

Direction helps find the bad side.

What directional noise means If it only clicks when you turn left, the right side is usually under load. This is confusing, but physics says the outer wheel takes the load.

CV joint on specific side A clicking turn usually means the outer CV joint on the opposite side is bad. But a torn boot can be on either side.

Tie rod end on specific side A clunk when turning left usually means the right tie rod is worn.

Wheel bearing on specific side A humming noise that changes when you turn left or right is a wheel bearing. If you turn left and the noise stops, the right bearing is likely bad.

FAQ About Noise When Turning Steering Wheel

Why does my car make a noise when I turn the steering wheel?

It usually means a worn part. Low fluid causes whining. Bad CV joints cause clicking. Worn suspension parts cause clunking.

Is it safe to drive when the steering wheel makes noise when turning?

It depends on the noise. Squealing might be safe for a short trip. Grinding or clunking is dangerous. You risk losing steering control.

What is the average cost to fix steering wheel noise?

It depends on the part. A belt might cost $50. A steering rack can cost $1,500. Most repairs fall between $200 and $600.

What noise does a faulty steering rack make?

A bad rack usually makes a grinding or groaning sound. You might also feel stiffness in the wheel.

Can a bad wheel bearing cause steering noise?

Yes, it can. A bad bearing makes a humming or growling noise. The noise often changes when you turn left or right.

The Bottom Line

Don’t ignore noises when you turn. They are warning signs. Identifying the sound type helps you find the cause. Some fixes are simple, like adding fluid. Others require a professional. Early diagnosis prevents expensive repairs. Safety should always be your priority.

Quick Summary

Identify the Sound: Clicking means CV joints; Whining means the pump; Clunking means suspension.
Check Fluid: Low power steering fluid is a common and easy fix.
CV Joints: Clicking during sharp turns usually means a bad axle.
Tie Rods: Clunking sounds often point to worn tie rods or ball joints.
Safety First: Stop driving if the wheel feels loose or stiff.
Costs Vary: Expect to pay between $50 and $1,500 depending on the broken part.
Act Fast: Fixing small noises prevents bigger, dangerous failures.