This article was updated in January 26, 2026 with new products and information by Mark S. Taylor

Your adaptive cruise control just stopped working with a “system unavailable” message—now what?

This feature makes highway driving a breeze. But when it fails, it can be annoying or even scary. You might see a warning light pop up. Or maybe the car brakes for no reason.

I have seen many drivers panic over these issues. Often, the fix is simple, like wiping dirt off a sensor. Other times, it needs a software update.

In this guide, I will walk you through 10 Common Adaptive Cruise Control Problems. You will learn how to clean the sensors, when to reset the system, and what repairs might cost.

Let’s get you back on the road safely.

Common Adaptive Cruise Control Problems

Contents

Adaptive Cruise Control (ACC) uses sensors to match your speed to the car in front.

It is smarter than old-school cruise control. It can slow down or speed up automatically.

ACC Basics

It watches the road so you can relax a little.

  • Speed Control: You set a max speed.
  • Distance Control: You choose how far to follow.
  • Braking: If traffic slows, your car brakes.
  • Resuming: If traffic clears, your car speeds up.

Key Components

A few main parts make the magic happen.

  • Radar Sensor: Usually in the front grille or bumper. It sees objects.
  • Camera: Mounted behind the windshield mirror. It reads lanes.
  • Control Module: The brain that decides when to brake.

Common Brand Names

Every car maker has a fancy name for it.

  • Toyota: Dynamic Radar Cruise.
  • Honda: ACC with Low-Speed Follow.
  • Subaru: EyeSight.
  • Tesla: Autopilot.

Most issues come from blocked sensors or bad weather.

1. “Radar Sensor Blocked” or “ACC Unavailable” Message

This is the most common error and usually means the sensor is dirty.

The radar sits low on the front of the car. It gets covered in road grime fast.

  • Causes: Mud, snow, ice, or dead bugs on the bumper.
  • Symptoms: The system turns off and shows a warning.
  • DIY Fix: wipe the front emblem or radar box with a damp cloth.
  • Cost: Free.

2. Phantom Braking or False Emergency Braking

The car slams on the brakes for no reason.

This is scary. The car thinks a shadow or sign is an obstacle.

  • Causes: Shadows under bridges or shiny road signs.
  • Symptoms: Sudden braking on a clear road.
  • What to Do: Keep your foot near the gas pedal to override it.
  • Cost: Free (software update) to $300 (sensor recalibration).

3. Dirty or Obstructed Windshield Camera

If the camera cannot see, the system shuts down.

The camera lives behind the rearview mirror. If the glass is dirty, it goes blind.

  • Causes: Bug splatters, mud, or bad wiper streaks.
  • Symptoms: “Clean Windshield” message.
  • DIY Fix: Wash the windshield. Install new wiper blades.
  • Cost: $10–$30 for wipers.

4. Sensor Misalignment After Collision or Service

A small bump can point the radar in the wrong direction.

Even a parking lot tap can mess this up. If the sensor points up, it misses the car ahead.

  • Causes: Fender benders or windshield replacement.
  • Symptoms: The system works poorly or shows a “Calibration” error.
  • Fix: You need a pro to aim it again.
  • Cost: $150–$400.

5. Inconsistent Following Distance

The car gets too close or stays too far back.

It feels unsafe. You might find yourself braking manually because the car waits too long.

  • Causes: Bad calibration or a software glitch.
  • What to Do: Adjust the gap setting on your steering wheel.
  • Cost: Free to check settings.

6. System Shuts Off in Bad Weather

Heavy rain or snow blinds the sensors.

This is normal. The system turns off to keep you safe.

  • Causes: Thick fog, blizzard, or downpour.
  • Symptoms: “ACC Disabled due to Weather.”
  • What to Do: Drive manually until the weather clears.
  • Cost: $0.

7. ACC Doesn’t Detect Stopped Vehicles

Most systems ignore stationary cars at high speed.

This is a known limit. The radar ignores stopped objects so it doesn’t brake for signs.

  • Causes: System design limits.
  • Symptoms: The car speeds toward a stopped traffic jam.
  • What to Do: Be ready to brake! Do not trust it fully.
  • Cost: N/A.

8. Software Glitches or System Freezes

Like a phone, the car computer can freeze.

Sometimes the brain just gets stuck.

  • Causes: Buggy code or memory errors.
  • Symptoms: The buttons do not work.
  • What to Do: Turn the car off and on again. Check for updates at the dealer.
  • Cost: $0–$150.

9. Wiring or Electrical Connection Problems

Rats or rust can ruin the wires.

The wires run to the front bumper. They are exposed to water and pests.

  • Causes: Corrosion or rodent damage.
  • Symptoms: Intermittent failure.
  • Fix: Repair the harness.
  • Cost: $100–$600.

10. Control Module Failure

The main computer board dies.

This is rare but expensive. It usually happens on older cars.

  • Causes: Electronics failure.
  • Symptoms: The system is totally dead.
  • Fix: Replace the module.
  • Cost: $500–$2,000.

Start with the simple stuff before you pay a mechanic.

Step 1: Check for Warning Messages

Read the dash. Does it say “Blocked”? Clean it. Does it say “Service Required”? That is a repair.

Step 2: Visual Inspection

Look at the front. Is the radar box loose? Is the windshield cracked by the camera? Is there mud on the bumper?

Step 3: Test in Different Conditions

Drive on a clear day. Does it work when it is sunny? If yes, the sensors might just struggle in rain.

Step 4: Check for Software Updates

Call the dealer. Ask if there is a recall or update for your cruise control.

Step 5: Scan for Diagnostic Codes

Use a scanner. An OBD2 scanner can show hidden codes. This helps the mechanic. If you see other weird lights, check our Master Warning Light guide.

You can solve many issues with a rag and soap.

Clean Sensors and Camera

Wipe them down. Use glass cleaner on the windshield. Use soapy water on the bumper radar.

System Reset

Reboot the car. Park safely. Turn the engine off. Open the door to kill power. Wait a minute. Restart.

Check Owner’s Manual

Read the book. Learn how to change the follow distance. Learn the limits.

Adjust Following Distance Setting

Change the gap. If it feels too close, press the button to add more space bars.

Some jobs need special tools.

See Dealer/Specialist If:

Cleaning fails. If the warning stays on after a wash, the sensor might be broken.

Requires Calibration:

After body work. If you get a new windshield or bumper, you MUST calibrate the system.

Requires Dealer Service:

For software. Only dealers can update the main computer code.

Here is what you might pay.

ProblemDIY CostPro CostTime
Cleaning$0–$10$50–$10020 min
Software UpdateN/A$150–$3001 hr
CalibrationN/A$150–$4002 hrs
New RadarN/A$300–$1,2002 hrs
New CameraN/A$200–$8002 hrs
ModuleN/A$500–$2,0003 hrs

Export to Sheets

Prices vary by car brand.

Every brand has unique quirks.

Toyota/Lexus

Solid but sensitive. They are reliable. But sun glare can cause phantom braking.

Honda/Acura

Keep it clean. The camera is very picky about windshield dirt. Keep good wipers on it.

Ford/Lincoln

Winter issues. The radar sits low. It gets blocked by snow slush easily.

GM (Chevrolet/GMC/Cadillac)

Grille blockage. The sensor is often behind the badge. Keep the emblem clean.

Tesla

Vision only. Newer models use cameras only. They get regular updates to fix bugs.

Subaru

Glass care. EyeSight is very strict about windshield cracks. Do not mount toll passes near the cameras.

A little care goes a long way.

Regular Maintenance

Wash your car. Keep the “eyes” of the car clean. This prevents 90% of issues.

After Any Repair Work

Ask about calibration. If a shop fixes your bumper, ask if they aimed the radar.

Winter Preparation

Clear the snow. Brush off the front grille before you drive. Do not let ice build up.

Driving Habits

Stay alert. Use ACC as a helper, not a driver. Be ready to take over.

You might be covered.

What’s Typically Covered

Defects. If the module dies early, the warranty pays.

What’s Not Covered

Damage. If a rock cracks the radar, you pay (or insurance does).

Extended Warranty Considerations

Worth it? If you have a luxury car, sensors are pricey. A warranty might save money.

Checking for Recalls

Look it up. Go to the NHTSA website. Type your VIN. See if there is a free fix.

Yes, the car drives fine manually.

Safety Perspective

It is safe. You just have to use the gas and brake yourself. Stay focused.

Impact on Other Systems

Safety features remain. Usually, emergency braking still works even if cruise is off.

When to Stop Driving

If brakes act up. If the car brakes randomly and won’t stop, pull over. Call a tow.

Start by cleaning the front sensor and windshield. Check for any warning lights on the dashboard. If cleaning does not work, check for a software update or see a mechanic.

The most common issues are blocked sensors and dirty cameras. You might also see phantom braking or calibration errors. Electrical glitches can cause the system to freeze.

A blocked or dirty radar sensor is the number one failure. Road grime, mud, or snow covers the sensor. This prevents the system from seeing the road ahead.

Yes, it can fail due to sensor issues or software bugs. It usually turns itself off when it fails. You can still drive the car manually when this happens.

A simple cleaning costs nothing or a few dollars. Professional calibration costs $150 to $400. Replacing a sensor or module can cost over $1,000.

Adaptive cruise control problems are frustrating but usually solvable. The most common issues—sensor blockage, dirty cameras, and calibration errors—are relatively inexpensive to fix. Regular cleaning and maintenance prevent many problems.

Key takeaways:

  • Most common problem: Dirty or blocked sensors ($0–$100 to fix).
  • After any repair: Check if calibration is needed ($150–$400).
  • Phantom braking: Software issue; check for updates.
  • Bad weather shutdowns: Normal behavior, not a defect.
  • Always stay alert: ACC is a convenience, not autopilot.

When ACC stops working, start with simple fixes: clean sensors, clean the windshield, and restart the system. If problems persist after basic troubleshooting, see a professional. Diagnostic costs ($100–$150) can save you from guessing and replacing wrong parts.

Don’t ignore persistent ACC problems. While you can drive safely without it, malfunctioning sensors or calibration issues can indicate broader ADAS problems that affect other safety features.